So I take it with a grain of salt when people who have spent one week diving in Cozumel and made perhaps 8 dives or even worse, someone who has taken a dive excursion off of a cruise ship feel they have enough information to form an informed opinion of diving in Cozumel and post it on some internet scuba message board as some great revelation.

The following discussion has been created over a number of years from notes and logs recorded while enjoying those 700 dives. It represents honest, unbiased personal judgment. There may be some who might disagree with some of what follows but it does represent an educated opinion.

Unless there is a storm approaching, the prevailing current runs south to north (if facing the island from the boat, from right to left) at most dive sites. This constant river-like flow supplies the reef system with both the nourishment and the cleansing essential for lush coral and a healthy fish population. Depending on the weather, the topography and location of the specific site, the flow can range from barely perceptible to ripping. More than one diver has come up comparing a Cozumel drift dive to the dream sensation of flying.

Because of this stream, virtually all dives are drift dives meaning that the boat will not anchor but will follow the current. The captain, using his knowledge of the reef structure and the typical time it takes to run it and keeping an eye on divers' bubbles will usually be waiting for you when you return to the surface. Divers rarely fight the current, but rather find their proper depth, relax and let the flow carry them along. On dives with little or no current a diver will occasionally kick their fins but on some others, will primarily use flippers for directional changes only.

The most common underwater landscape generally begins nearest the island with a relatively shallow (30 to 60 feet) sandy bottom. The first set of structures is the shallow coral reefs that can reach within a few feet of the surface. These will give way to the deeper coral that can rise from over 100 feet. And finally, comes "The Wall" which drops off to a depth of thousands of feet. There usually is a second sandy bottom between the shallow and the deep coral or, sometimes, valleys of sand between two ridges of coral.

The typical two-tank dive trip begins with a boat ride to the south of the hotel district. Most dive operators have a main pier they ask divers to meet at but, if asked, are willing to pick up at hotel piers on the way out. The "fast boats" can reach some sites in 15 minutes and take approximately 45 minutes to the southernmost dive points. The slow boats can take up to twice as long. Unless a special deeper dive has been arranged, the first dive will generally run 75 to 90 feet. After an appropriate surface interval, which will include a boat ride back north towards the hotel district, this is followed by a shallow dive of usually 40 to 60 feet. If asked, fast boat captains are usually willing to spend part of the surface interval on a beach. The fact that operators prefer to make the second dive on the way back from the first dive (and thus reduce the length of the boat ride home after the second dive) can limit the opportunity to dive some of the southern shallow reefs.

The dive master will share any tips with the crew. While divers are not obligated to tip, $5 per day per diver is appropriate for good service.

All beaches and dive sites from the ferry pier in downtown San Miguel to the southern tip of the island are protected as a part of an underwater national park. No fishing is allowed in this area and divers are not allowed to keep any souvenirs, not even the smallest shell. Fishing and shell collecting are allowed north of the downtown pier and on the ocean side of the island.

Water visibility on most Cozumel reefs usually averages between 100 and 150 feet. This will be reduced during the rainy season (June-October) but even then, because of the absence of any above ground rivers or streams on the island, 75 or more feet is the norm.

Water temperature is relatively constant year round with a range of the upper 70's in the winter to the lower 80's in the summer. Divers that are sensitive to the cold may opt for a 1/8" or 3mm wet suit, shorty or jacket but many divers are comfortable in a dive skin only.

Speaking of Punta Sur, due to the distance, some dive operators may require a slightly higher fee for trips here. In addition, because of the depth and necessity for good buoyancy control, many will want to see clients dive at least once before taking them here. Along with the chance to see some big fish and impressive topography, the main attraction is a cave system including a section called "Devil's Throat." In the course of running this section, divers penetrate a large dark room, slide over a ledge and wind their way down to an exit at about 125 feet. This is an excellent advanced dive.

Nearby, Columbia Shallow is a very shallow dive ranging from 20 to 35 feet with lots of color and fish life. It is not what would be considered a challenging dive, but more of a stroll through a lovely park. Because this site is so far south, it doesn't fit into the typical pattern of making your shallow dive north of your first dive and as a result, doesn't get a lot of diver activity. There is some speculation that black tip sharks use this area as a nursery as evidenced by occasional sightings of juveniles. A dive at Columbia Shallow may require some pre-arranging with the dive shop. If you are able to make Columbia Shallow your second dive, ask your dive master or boat captain to show you the nearby shallow sandy area. It makes a great spot for spending your surface interval.

The famous Palancar reef is another example of the enormous size of some of Cozumel's dive sites. What is known as Palancar is actually a series of reefs that would require several days to explore. Few places in the world offer relatively safe dives for beginners yet present the beauty of Palancar Caves and the shallower Palancar Gardens. These two dives offer something for all levels of skill from the beginner to the most experienced diver. Gentle currents are the rule here, allowing the sensation of drift diving and a brief exposure to "The Wall" without the danger you might find in a faster flow. These reefs can be dived enjoyably from 50 to 90 or more feet and therefore lend themselves to multi-level dives. During certain seasons, literally clouds of small mixed "silver sides" can be found in some of the caves at both sites.

Some parts of the shallower portion of Palancar Horseshoe are full of broken coral and little fish life. However, other sections of the area known as Little Horseshoe are a winding maze of pristine pinnacles that rise from a depth of over 100 feet and top out at around 30 feet from the surface. And for the advanced diver, the little dived wall at Horseshoe can be outstanding.

Another seldom-dived area just north of Palancar that is inviting for experienced or novice divers is Dalila. Rather than the giant structures found further south, this reef offers a series of low profile coral with overhangs, caves and a wide variety of fish. In a single dive here, it is possible to find numerous varieties of butterfly fish, angel fish, trunk fish, file fish, ocean and queen trigger fish, splendid toad fish, green turtles, large barracuda, African Pompano, amber jack and resting nurse sharks.

One of the most visited dive sites in Cozumel is the Santa Rosa Wall. Many divers have made multiple dives there and never found more than a gentle current. They surface raving about the beauty of the wall, the towering coral, the large sponges and small caves. However, as reported in the September 1993 issue of Undercurrent and from this writer's personal experience, the current at Santa Rosa can sometimes be dangerous.

Make sure the dive master jumps into the water first to check the current. If he says you need to move on to another site, don't argue the point. While there is always some current here, it is usually an easy pleasurable dive. However, in the worst conditions, even an experienced diver can find it difficult to maintain their depth.

Interestingly, one of the tip-offs that there is a dangerous current at Santa Rosa is the water above the wall appears flat (but with small ripples) while nearby water is choppy. Because Santa Rosa is the wall dive nearest to the resort area, dive masters that are most interested in "getting out and getting back" will attempt to suggest this as your first dive every time out. While it is an interesting dive that anyone might enjoy the first time, there is too much to see in Cozumel to dive Santa Rosa more than once in a week long trip.

For a novice diver's first exposure to a wall dive, San Francisco Wall is a good choice. Just south of the San Francisco Beach club, you will find a ridge of coral running parallel to the shore along the top of a gently sloping wall starting at about 50 feet. While it obviously goes deeper, the best coral is at 65 feet or above so this can be an enjoyable yet shallow wall dive. Expect to see lots of fish, lobster, crab, lush coral, sponges and an occasional turtle.

Just north of San Francisco is the shallow Caradona Reef. It is a low profile system with broad flat reefs full of holes and crevasses where a variety of creatures hide. It is possible to spot sleeping nurse sharks by looking through holes from the top of the reef or underneath an overhanging ledge.

Another excellent shallow dive in the same general is Punta Tunich . You will find a very quick current over some colorful low profile coral and lots of fish. At Tunich, be sure to stay behind your dive master. There are several holes with protective overhangs that he will drop into attempting to locate some large green moray eels. If you're in front of him when he drops, you'll find it a difficult swim back against the current.

Tunich is usually made as a shallow dive of 55 to 65 feet but, in fact, you are traveling down the top and just inside another dive site known as the Virgin Wall, which in turn leads to an area known as Yucab Wall. As the name implies, because of the swift current that can sometimes blow away from the wall, very few trips are made here. This is not a wall dive for novices and is best at 90 feet and deeper.

Flying with the current, it doesn't take very long to run the length of Tunich. Many dive masters will drop into Tunich at a point prior to the green moray eel hole, and when the bottom begins dropping away, turn right and swim across a sand and grass bottom for about five minutes. While there is little in the way of coral or colorful vegetation over this sandy bottom, stay alert for sightings of some fish species unusual for Cozumel. Eventually you will reach Yucab, where the current is always present but generally calmer than at Tunich. You'll also find lots of overhangs and crevices to explore. A large number of ocean trigger fish hang out here, as do solitary barracudas and some very large sheep heads.

For some reason, there is not as much diver pressure at the Cedral Wall than at some less attractive dives, but in many ways this is one of the best wall dives on the island. On occasion, the current can blow a little strong and off the wall but if the diver keeps an eye on his depth and stays relatively close to the wall, it is nothing an intermediate diver can't handle. The wall begins at around 60 feet and goes down from there. It can be a rewarding dive from 60 to 125 (or deeper) feet. At different points along this wall you might find yourself flying along a gentle slope while in other sections you will realize you are suspended over a bottom that disappears into a purple abyss. This is also a good place to make a multi-level dive moving up and down the wall and including a relatively shallow garden of coral running parallel to the divide closer to the island. While there's no guarantee, divers often see spotted eagle rays, large grouper, crabs, lobsters, turtles and a wide variety of reef fish. There are lots of holes and crevasses in the wall as well as protected overhangs in the shallow area, ideal haunts for nurse sharks.

In the same general area is the very pretty shallow dive Paso de Cedral. Expect to see a variety of reef fish, spotted moray eels, grouper, lobster, crab and an occasional turtle. The coral is often described as post card quality with lots of openings providing framed vistas. Towards the end of this dive there are a few small caves where divers swim through schools of glassy slippers. The only problem with this site is that it sees a lot of diver activity

Tormentos is known for its large grouper and spotted eels. The grouper start collecting as soon as divers drop into the water and will sometimes stay with groups the entire dive. The reef is a series of large flat coral heads surrounded by sandy bottom. Visibility is sometimes clouded here but overall, it's an enjoyable 45 to 55 foot dive.

A popular shallow dive for day and night trips is the reef at Chankanaab. As you might guess, it lies just off the shore from the Chankanaab National Park. This is one of the few locations where you will usually find the current running north to south or reverse of everywhere else in the resort area. However, unless there is a storm nearby, the current won't be very strong. Expect to see lots of miscellaneous reef fish.

There is an interesting shore dive of the openings to some caves that are home to large tarpon and silver sides inside the Chankanaab National Park. This is also a chance to experience the "green mirror" effect of fresh water from underground streams floating over top of the ocean salt water. To reach the caves, enter the water as far south in the park as possible and swim south along the shore. Eventually you will reach a large room on your left, which marks the entrance to the caves. Care should be taken not to stray too far from the entry unless you have cave certification. This is a very shallow dive of 10 to 20 feet. Tank and gear rental is available on the beach inside the park.

Just outside of the shallower Chankanaab reef is another seldom-dived area known as Chankanaab Balones. The name for this reef comes from the rounded coral heads resembling balloons that rise up out of the sandy bottom. This is an in-between depth of 55 to 75 feet, a little too deep for a non-computer second dive and really not very deep for a "deep" first dive. Also, because of its location north of most of the good shallow dives, a deep dive here limits your choice for a second dive. Visibility is usually not as good as most other sites in Cozumel but partly because of that and also the lack of diver pressure; you can sometimes experience some very close encounters with large and unusual fish.

Probably the most visited dive site in Cozumel is Paradise Reef. This is a shallow dive of 30 to 45 feet suitable for beginners. The reef is close enough to land (approximately 200 yards) to kick out for a shore dive. If you want to make a shore dive here, you will find it just north of the El Presidente hotel. There is a small dirt road that you follow north of and past the marina about 200 yards to a small shack. Just swim out perpendicular to the shore and you can't miss it. The reef runs all the way to the Cruise Ship Pier and the current is normally gentle enough to allow you to swim in both directions without trouble.

Paradise has an abundance of fish life and is an excellent place to spot the Splendid Toad Fish, a species that is unique to Cozumel. Because of the location close to the resort area, most operators will make their night dives on Paradise. Unfortunately, the coral is beginning to show the wear of nighttime reef walking.

The top of the Villa Blanca Wall begins at about 60 feet and gently slopes away. There's really not very much coral but there are lots of sponges and vegetation. The reef area just inside of the wall is loaded with lobster and miscellaneous reef fish including spotted drum. And its location makes it a very quick trip back to town when you're finished.

There are several reasons most dive operators don't usually go to these areas. Two big considerations are the distance (and as a result the time and fuel required) and the surface water conditions of some of these sites. Unless the wind is blowing out of the north, the water usually gets rougher and rougher after passing Palancar Caves and the same goes for the north end of the island as well. While the dives listed in this section that are on the north end of the island are fairly close to the town, it can take a very long time to reach some of the sites listed below on the south end and even longer to reach those on the Other Side of the island.

Another concern is depth. While some sections can be dived shallower, some of the following go deeper than what is generally considered recreational diving limits. For several, a very swift current coupled with the open ocean environment combine for difficult conditions. And finally, in the case of the north end of the island, on occasion (usually due to weather) the Captain of the Port simply bars recreational diving there.

All of these concerns suggest that the following dives are for self-sufficient divers only.

While not on most dive shops regular list of trips, many operators are willing to organize trips to at least some of these areas if competent divers request it. If you can present your own group of four to six qualified divers, your chances of being able to go to these sites is greatly enhanced.

On the north end of the island are the legendary San Juan and Barracuda Reefs and the lesser known Cantarel. Because of the sometimes rough surface and always fast underwater currents and the resultant difficulty for the boat crews in following diver bubbles, some of the trips to Barracuda will include snorkelers who act as spotters for the boat captains. The importance of this should not be lost on the reader, as once you drift past the north end of Cozumel the next stop is Cuba. This area is best dived very early in the morning as the current tends to quicken as the day passes.

The attraction of Barracuda is a swift (and not always flat) current pushing you along a deep wall and the chance to see large numbers and large sizes of fish. In addition, December and January are the height of mating season for spotted eagle rays in Cozumel and and these northern reefs are where the rays gather to socialize. In those months, it is not unusual to find groups of 10-20 of these beautiful creatures winging down the walls at these locations.

Most dives begin over a sandy bottom, which gives way to a small ridge on top of the wall. The current here is usually quite strong and not always flat but it's not uncommon to see several species of sharks, turtles, jacks, barracudas and during the mating season, schools of spotted eagle rays.

Both Cantarel and San Juan are shallower dives in the same general area and with a current that is almost always present but usually is not as strong as you'll find at Barracuda. On both you'll see lots of fish, sponges and lower profile coral.

To the south the legend is Maracaibo. The wall, at what is known as Maracaibo Deep, begins at around 120 feet but is really best at 145-160 feet. You will see large coral buttresses, lots of caves and fish and on occasion, a pretty strong current. It is not unusual to see a variety of sharks, spotted eagle rays and other large animals.

Just inside the wall is a reef dive known as Maracaibo Shallow. At a depth of 95 feet you will find abundant and very colorful hard and soft coral and lots of fish. Unlike many dives in Cozumel, you are more likely to experience a slight back and forth surge, as you are to find a straight current.

You need to pick the right weather conditions to dive Islelotti (Little Island) as you actually go past the south end of the island and follow the coast around past the southern lighthouse. Just off a small island you will drop into water with a bottom of 150-250 feet but with coral that tops out around 90 feet. What fish and turtles you see tend to be large but because this area is outside of the national park and is visited by fishermen, there is not a huge abundance of fish. But you will see broad ridges of pristine coral separated by sandy channels that stretch further than the usually good visibility.

Traditionally, very little tourist diving has occurred on the eastern Ocean Side of Cozumel. Prevailing conditions usually produce rough seas and a fast current and this reputation has left the diving on the eastern side of the island to local fishermen. However, if you pick the right dive operator and can be flexible enough to wait for the right weather conditions, you can experience moderate currents and some truly undefiled reefs that compare favorably to dive sites anywhere in the world. And, because you aren't in the National Park, you can also spear fish. Most dive operators taking divers to the Ocean Side have their own special spots picked out. One area that is particularly impressive is just off the shore from the beach club at Playa Bonita. Typically, the boat will meet divers at the beach saving them a two to three hour trip around the island. From Playa Bonita, a five-minute boat ride will put you on top of rows and rows of virginal coral heads surrounded by a sandy bottom, sometimes separated by narrow channels. The tops of the coral in this particular area range from 60 to over 100 feet deep. Because the area is fished, you tend to see very few grouper and other popular eating fish, but are likely to encounter other smaller reef fish (including some interesting species like lizard, porcupine and pipe fish), lobster and the occasional shark. The attraction here is the untouched coral, large plants, fans, sponges, and lacy sea plumes.

In Cozumel, the first operator making regular cavern dives was Chuck Jones at Discover Cozumel Dive Shop who takes divers to Aruelito Cave. At last report, there was roughly 7,000 feet of line and some speculation that the system leads eventually to Chankanaab. Yucatech Expeditions offers cenote, cave and cavern diving for certified divers on both Cozumel and the mainland.

If you ask around, you will likely hear both good and bad comments about Cavern or Cenote Diving on the Yucatan mainland. As you drive up and down Highway 307 in either direction from Playa del Carmen, you will see signs for various cenotes. A diver without special cave certification can arrange for the equivalent of a cavern resort course or take the 14-dive week long cavern certification course with Mike Madden’s Cedam Dive Center in Akumal. The easiest way to get to Akumal. from Cozumel is the ferry to Playa del Carmen and then a taxi or bus down the coast. There is ocean diving in Akumal. but it's not as good as on Cozumel.

Dos Ojos is another cenote dive center located near Tulum.

Our Favorite Resort Area Deep Dive: The southern section of Columbia Deep. Columbia Deep is the name given to a large section of reef on the southern end of the typical resort diving area. The area just north of Punta Sur is our favorite section. It offers huge coral formations that rise from a depth of over 200 feet, a portion on a deep wall and lots of crevasses and caves. Our choice for a close runner-up is Little Horseshoe.

Our Favorite Wall Dive in the resort diving area: Cedral Wall. This is a beautiful wall with changing topography and excellent fish life. And for some reason, it doesn’t get half the diver traffic that some less desirable walls get.

Our Favorite Shallow Wall Dive: San Francisco Wall. This wall tops out at about 50 feet and the best coral is at 65 feet and above. There is good and varied fish life available and while there is a current, it is usually gentle. All this makes San Francisco a good choice for an introduction to drift diving on a wall.

Our Favorite Shallow Dive: Paso de Cedral. Even though this dive site sometimes gets too many divers, it offers beautiful coral with lots of fish. And depending on how much air you have left and the current on the particular day you are there, once you pass the caves with the silver sides, you can end this dive in any of several directions. When you’re doing your safety stop at Cedral, keep an eye on the bottom as we’ve seen spotted eagle rays and turtles while doing ours there on more than one occasion. Yucab comes in a close second and has the advantage of lighter diver pressure.

Our Favorite High Octane Shallow Dive: Punta Tunich. We love to find our depth and just fly down this colorful low profile reef.

Our Favorite Boat Dives to take a snorkeler along: Columbia Shallow and Palancar Gardens. Both of these have colorful coral and lots of fish and top out close enough to the surface that they're easily enjoyed by snorklers too. Because Columbia Shallow is so far south (and therefore a long way from town) it may be hard to talk your dive master into making it a second dive.

Our Favorite Exotic Dive: The Ocean side near Playa Bonita. We’ve made this dive several times and we’re still not sure of the name of this site. Every time we ask the different dive masters we’ve gone with, each has said it was named after themselves. We know the reputation of danger in diving the Ocean side but if you can get there on a calm day early in the morning before the current picks up, this site offers the chance to flow across and between pristine coral ridges that stretch as far as the eye can see in moderate currents. In reality, the surface conditions are a lot worse than it is under water. On occasion, we’ve caught fish and lobster at this site and brought them back to the restaurant at Playa Bonita for lunch. Can you say fresh seafood?

For the sake of this discussion, we’ve gone into more detail regarding the standard program for one company: Dive Paradise. That’s largely because over the years, we have a lot of experience in going out with them and can write from personal experience. We don’t dive exclusively with them but in general, we like diving with Dive Paradise and are comfortable in recommending them to other divers. But it is our strong opinion that Dive Paradise is not the only good dive shop in Cozumel. It is simply a good dive shop in Cozumel that we have a lot of experience with.

When reading the discussion about the mechanics of diving with Dive Paradise, keep in mind that most operators in Cozumel offer similar packages and If you are traveling in a group of four to six divers of similar skills, most are willing to try to accommodate any reasonable request.

In reality, it is our opinion that the specific dive master that you go out with is a whole lot more important that the dive operator.

The list of dive shops in the discussion section below does not include every operation in Cozumel. But it does cover many of the better-known operators and a few very good smaller operations that you may not be familiar with.

Dive Paradise is one of the largest dive companies in Cozumel and offers a wide variety of packages. You may have seen Dive Paradise magazine ads promoting three-tank boat dives. For this you get a two-tank dive, including tanks and weights, departing the pier at the Barracuda Hotel around 8:15 am, soft drinks and a boxed snack on a large slow boat with no more than 16 divers and two dive masters. The boat returns to the dock around 2:00 pm and then heads back out around 3:30 pm for a third dive of 60 feet or less. Not everyone on your morning trip will go for the third dive and you may pick up divers from other boats. The two-tank slow boat dives go for $58 so if you're looking for a bargain, $10 for the third dive is hard to beat.

The slow boats are fine if you want a nice leisurely sun filled day. If you're a part of a large group that wants to dive and socialize together, it's a great choice. But be warned that you will tend to spend more time on top of the water than in it. And if you are alone or in a small group, you will find that the more divers on a boat the more likely that some are going to be novices or (even worse) just plain jerks that might limit or compromise your experience.

If you want to get to the reef quickly and dive in a smaller group, opt for the "fast" boat trips. They will cost $4 per day more but you will find yourself with a shorter boat ride and in a group of four to seven divers. Since Dive Paradise allows (with some limitations) the divers on board each boat to select dive sites, a group of four divers on a fast boat can usually dictate the reefs they want to see. The fast boats also allow easier access to some of the more interesting distant dive sites that prove difficult to reach on the slow boats.

Even though they are serving a large number of divers, a proficient diver looking for a unique experience can find happiness at Dive Paradise. On your first visit to the dive shop, tell the desk clerk that you are interested in EDP (Experienced Diver Program) computer dives. You will still need to have a dive master affirm your skills the first day. But once done, Dive Paradise will try to match you up with other experienced divers and allow you to go to advanced dive sites like Punta Sur and Maracaibo, base bottom times on your computer and generally give you the freedom and flexibility you're probably looking for. EDP dives will cost $69 or $7 more than a standard fast boat.

The price of the packages that Dive Paradise sells through magazine ads or tour operators almost always are based on the slow boats. If you want the fast boat trips it will cost you slightly more than the advertised price. If you reserve fast boats as a part of a package before you come down, make sure you get this confirmed in writing and take the confirmation with you to the dive shop on your first visit. If you find you’ve reserved slow boats and would prefer the fast, you can upgrade your package at the dive shop. It will cost a little more but if it's what you want, the small extra cost is worth it. Even if you haven't pre-booked a dive package, you should be able to negotiate a discount of 10-15% if you're willing to book 3 or more dives when you arrive at the shop.

Night dives are available most evenings at $33 for a single tank on a slow boat, usually to Paradise or Chankanaab.

Snorkelers or non-divers over age 12 can accompany any two-tank dive for $30. A full range of dive course instruction including resort course, full certification, checkout dives and advanced specialty courses are offered at Dive Paradise.

By and large, the staff members at Dive Paradise are genuinely nice people who are not out to take advantage of tourist. If there is some confusion on your reservation or something doesn't go just like you wanted it to, keep this in mind and you will probably find them most accommodating to any reasonable request. Dive Paradise is on Rafael Melgar near the Naval station and the Rock 'N Java restaurant. The local telephone number is 87 21007 and the Fax is 87 21061.

There are hundreds of dive operations in Cozumel. There is no attempt to make the following list complete but it does offer some information including web site links where available on a few. You’ll probably be able to guess which ones this writer ends up going out with when he dives in Cozumel.

Along with Dive Paradise Aqua Safari is one of the larger operations in Cozumel. It's primary location and main pier are at the Plaza Las Glorias hotel. Aqua Safari runs two very nice boats with group sizes of 10 or more and recently has added some smaller fast boats. This operator is very safety conscious to the point that some more advanced divers may feel restricted. Telephone 87 23362 or 87 20101.

We used to enjoy going out with Cinpatica Charters. Owner/dive master Felipe Quinones was the first person to take us over to the "other side" for diving. However, we have heard rumors that Cinpatica may not be offering dives at this time. If you want to try though, the telephone number used to be: 87 21817.

One of the legendary dive masters on the island is Ricardo Madrigal of Careyitos Advanced Divers. Los Careyitos specializes in advanced, multi-level computer diving and is a good choice for divers wanting to go to the deeper and more challenging dive sites. When you dive with Los Careyitos, it is assumed that you are an experienced, self-sufficient diver. Los Careyitos has a nice boat that is suitable for reaching any dive site. Telephone 87 21578.

One of the smaller dive shops is Black Shark Dive Shop. Prices will tend to be a little cheaper than at some of the larger operators. Black Shark is on Ave 5 between A.R. Salas and Calle 3. Telephone 87 20396.

Papa Hogs Scuba Emporium of Cozumelis owned and operated by Mike and Margaret Gerus, originally from Ontario, Canada. It is located on the beach in front of Villa Blanca Hotel.

Antoinio and Chellie Castellanos of Eagle Ray Divers offer a wide range of options on dive and snorkel trips. We've been out with them on occasion and find Eagle Ray to be a very reliable dive operator. Telephone: 87 25735.

To be perfectly honest, we get more than a little frustrated when we hear anyone say something like “Dream Dives” is THE BEST in the world! How could anyone know that unless they’ve been diving with every dive shop in the world? And BEST for who? It is entirely possible that what is best for one type of diver is not best for another. The very thing that might make one dive shop a thrilling choice for an advanced diver might lead to a white knuckle experience for a beginner.

With that said, we present the following as Our Favorites in Cozumel:

Our Favorite Large Dive Shop: Surprise, surprise – It’s Dive Paradise. They offer lots of options and packages. In general, it is a well-run shop with a good overall safety record staffed with genuinely nice people. .

Our Favorite Small Dive Operation: Buena Ventura Diving. As noted above, Ventura is an outstanding dive master who offers a very personalized service. He has a knack for finding large critters and sites that are close to more frequented spots but just far enough away to avoid the crowds. He’s been the dive master of 3 of what we consider our 5 best dives (out of hundreds) we’ve made in Cozumel. And he’s a really nice guy.

Island Photo Video Center not only offers video production services but also rents still and video cameras and offers an authorized Sea & Sea Service Center and Nikonos Repair Facility. They are located near the La Ceiba Hotel. Telephone 87 25833.

While you will run into a lot of other people with the same idea, Chankanaab Park is a good place to try. While there is a $10 per person admission fee to the Park there’s a lot more to do there than just snorkeling. Snorkel and scuba gear can be rented on the beach.

Dzul Ha is in the same general vicinity about 4 miles south of town directly across from the small Hotel Club del Sol. With the new divided road leading south, you have to take the access road at the Caleta Marina and drive south of the El Presidente hotel to reach it. The snorkeling is on par with what you’ll find at Chankanaab plus there is no admission charge. The reef is about 20 yards off the beach in depths from 12-40 feet. There is also a nice stand of stag horn coral about a 10-minute swim north of the pool area. There is a small restaurant and bar for food and drinks and you can rent snorkel or scuba gear there.

There are lots of organized snorkel boat trips that usually include rental gear, beer and soft drinks. Prices run $30-$40 for a half day trip. "Snorkel Tour" departs from the Pro Dive pier near KFC. Telephone 87 21379. The Fury is a 60-foot catamaran departing from Scuba Shack near the Casa Del Mar. Telephone 87 21545.

Atlantis Submarine Tour gives non-divers a chance to experience a visit to the reef. The 45-minute (with commentary in English) tour includes a tour of the shallow reef in the area of Chankanaab and then a view of the drop-off. Maximum depth is about 100 feet. Cost per adult is $70-$75. Kids are half price. Located across the street from the Casa del Mar Hotel.

The Jungle Buggy Tour starts its snorkeling trip with a dune buggy ride to the other side of the island. Rather than turning right to follow the road up to the ocean side beach clubs and restaurants at Mezcalito's Bar & Grill, the buggies turn left for an hour long ride down a very bumpy road through a coconut plantation. Eventually you will reach a beautiful deserted beach that features a series of nice coral ridges that lie within an easy swim from the beach. On occasion, the trip includes a visit to a Mayan castillio on a cliff overlooking the beach. This isn't a cheap trip at $89 but a lot of people love it. Kids age 3-8 go at half price.

Additional notes on snorkeling can found in the following beach tour section.

Dr. Gustavo Ambriz MD, who runs the Buceo Medico Mexicano Chamber, is US trained and is generally considered one of the best doctors on the island regardless if your malady is dive related or not. The Cozumel Recompression Center is located at Calle 5 Sur #21B. Telephone 87 22387 or Fax: 87 21848. The 24 hour emergency number is 87 21430

The Cozumel Hyperbaric Research Chamber is located in the "San Miguel Clinic" at Calle 6 between Ave 5 and Ave 10 near the MAXI Supermarket. The Chamber is operated by Dr. Pascual Piccolo who has been studying & treating diving accidents for over 13 years. The 24 hour emergency number is 87 23070.