Restaurants – San Cristóbal 2015

The food scene in San Cristóbal de las Casas is varied and abundantly available. In the central historical district, it seems as if every other storefront offers another dining option. In researching for our trip, we were struck by the number of different styles of cuisine available: Italian, Spanish, Argentine, Middle Eastern, French, Japanese, hamburger joints, vegan, Thai and even a few Mexican restaurants can all be found.

We also found and enjoyed meals at several restaurants serving a fusion menu. From ouCocoliche Arab bread sandwichr experience, the top spot on that list would go to Cocoliche. Our first trip there was for lunch on the day of our arrival at the suggestion of our hotel and we enjoyed the meal so much that on the following evening; when we found the place around the corner that we planned to go was closed; another meal at Cocliche was an easy and enjoyable fallback.For dinner that night we shared a guacamole as a starter. I had a well prepared and tender Arrachera Steak (marinated skirt steak) and my wife had a penne pasta dish. Everything was good. There was a live band playing a mix of styles with an emphasis on Brazilian jazz. Very tasteful in its own right.

On our earlier lunch my wife got a curried chicken while I had a steak sandwich on what was described as pita and while Indio beervery good (and nicely toasted) it was not like the pita we see back home. We didn’t try one but saw a lot of diners getting smoothies. We did enjoy a nice cool Indio beer and a reasonably priced shot of a premium mescal. One of the nice things about having a meal at Cocoliche is its location half a block from Real de Guadalupe walking street, which makes for an enjoyable stroll towards the Central Square. Resto Teatro Cocoliche Cristobal Colon #3, San Cristóbal de las Casas 29230, Mexico / 967 63 14621

The other fusion restaurant we enjoyed was Mumo. This is a really cute small place with imaginative decorations like ceiling lights made from colanders and seating for no more than 10. We went there for a late lunch one day after a long morning of touring weaving villages. It is Mumo light 2a varied menu with daily specials but always includes Paninis and pastas. But the thing that sets Mumo apart from other places is their build your own salad. It comes in 3 sizes and we found the smallest more than enough for 2 to share as a starter. Your server will build a lettuce base and then give you the option of adding different ingredients and choice of dressing from the salad station. If anyone ever tells you not to eat the salad when traveling in Mexico, you can safely assume they’ve never been to Mumo. I would eat that salad again in a heartbeat.

On Thursday evenings, Mumo invites an outside chef to take over their kitchen and to also choose the live music for the evening.

Mumo
Maria Adelina Flores #16 | Centro, San Cristóbal de las Casas 29200, Mexico / +52 967 678 8949

Our guide took us to Madre Tierra for lunch on our first full day of touring. As soon Madre Tierra courtyardas you walk in the place, you are hit by the delicious smell of baking breads and cakes and the entire time we were there in one of the side rooms, staff kept walking from the kitchen to the front Madre Tierra side roomroom with one beautiful cake after another. The building was originally a colonial residence and the rooms are arranged around a serene central courtyard. We all got different sandwiches; hamburger, ham & cheese and veggie burger and all were good and on homemade buns that were outstanding. We were also joined by the friendly resident cat that welcomes all diners.

Madre Tierra
Insurgentes 19, San Cristóbal de las Casas, Mexico (967) 678-4297

After eating so many of our meals at non-traditional places, we decided on our last night in the city to go for a Belil Poshtotally Chiapas experience and chose Belil Sabores de Chaiapas Interconexion Social known by most as simply Restaurant Belil. We were immediately greeted by the owner, Ricardo Hernández who took the time to explain all the Chiapas specialties in English. He pointed out that ingredients are locally sourced from organic vendors. He also graciously gave us shots of Posh, the Chiapas home brew made from sugar cane.

We each started with a soup. My wife got a creamed Chipilín Belil chile relleno 1made from the leaf of an indigenous legume and I got a special made from a fungus grown on corn cobs. Both were terrific. My wife had the local version of vegetarian chile relleno while I got a mixed meat plate with several local sausages and a thinly cut steak. And for desert, we shared a delicious hot chocolate. We were both very happy.

During the entire meal, we were charmed by Ricardo and his wife Carmen and left the restaurant feeling like we had made new friends.

Belil Sabores de Chaiapas Interconexion Social
Maria Adelina Flores 20 / Esquina Cristobal Colon Centro, San Cristóbal de las Casas 29220, Mexico
+52 967 115 2022

El Meson del Taco al pastorOn a couple evenings we took advantage of the near to our hotel location of El Meson del Taco. The staff and other patrons were very friendly on both visits. But in all honesty, the tacos were good but not what I would consider great. I made the gringo mistake of not specifying that I wanted the smoked (Ahumadas) pork chop and got served the natural version on my plate of Chuleta con Queso. The tacos al pastor were good but not the best we ever had. I noticed that a large percentage of the al pastor were going out topped with melted cheese. If we were to ever eat there again; I think that’s what I would try.

El Meson del Taco
Crescencio Rosas 26, San Cristóbal de las Casas, Mexico

While we didn’t have an entire meal there, we did stop by Cafe Bar 500 Noches one afternoon on our way back to the hotel for a glass of wine and a snack. When we sat down our intention was to sample some of the tapas the place is known for but on the table top was a card describing their Crème brûlée, a dish which holds a special place in the heart of my wife. It was a good rendition and the service was good as well.

Cafe Bar 500 Noches San Cristóbal
Andador Miguel Hidalgo Local 6, San Cristóbal de las Casas 29200, Mexico
+52 967 631 5918